Mi pregunta es la siguiente.
¿Cómo puedo crear en casa las 3 fotos HDR (0, +2 y -2) partiendo de una foto RAW (NEF porque soy de Nikon…) de una forma automatizada?
Se que hay compañeros que lo hacen con proceso por lotes con programas como Capture NX (software de Nikon). Si alguno de vosotros sabe cómo hacerlo o lo hace con alguna aplicación diferente (Photoshop), os lo agradecería mucho!!
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Yo utilizo Capture one, es tan fácil como revelar todas las fotos, subexponer una, copiar el ajuste a todas las demás, revelar todas, subexponer una, copiar el ajuste a todas las demás, revelar todas… cuesta mas explicarlo que hacerlo y seguro que habría forma de automatizarlo, pero la verdad, no se para que sirve, resulta mas interesante hacer un buen revelado del raw exprimiendo las luces y las sombras lo que sea necesario, por que la información que hay en el raw es la que hay y no vas a sacar mas por hacer los 3 revelados, y el proceso se hace mas largo.
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Christian Bloch en su libro The HDRI Handbook 2.0 tiene un aparte sobre Pseudo HDR
copio los pasos a seguir según sus instrucciones:
1 Open your RAW file in Lightroom’s Develop module. 2 Set Blacks, Brightness, and Contrast to 0. Equivalent settings in Lightroom 4 are Exposure –1 EV and Contrast –40. 3 Tone Curve should be set to the Linear preset. So far that’s the standard procedure from section 3.2.4.
4 Click the triangle in the upper-right corner of the histogram for a Hot Pixel preview, and use the Recovery slider just until there are no more blown-out highlights. Don’t overdo it; values over 30 may introduce edge artifacts. In Lightroom 4, this setting is called Highlights, and you have to move the slider to the left to achieve the same effect. 5 If the shadows still have clipped areas, use just enough Fill Light to make them come back. In Lightroom 4 this slider is called Shadows. As with Highlight Recovery, if you push it too far you will introduce edge artifacts. Use the triangle in the upper-left corner of the histogram for a clipping preview again. 6 Observe the histogram closely. Keep in mind that the best area to retain your data is just right of the center. So if your image looks very dark now, and there is still room on the right side of the histogram, then it’s best to push Exposure up just enough so the bright end doesn’t clip. Again, using the clipping preview is essential here. 7 Adjust Lens Correction, White Balance, Sharpen, and Noise Reduction just as you would with any regular shot. Compared to the workflow for developing bracketed sequences, you’re fairly unrestricted here because you don’t have to account for consistency across all exposures. If the image requires touch-ups, feel free to use the clone stamp. You can also crop it, or apply perspective corrections. Doing all these adjustments in a familiar environment is the reason you’re going this route in the first place, so make good use of them. Even color tweaks are possible, although I recommend putting off drastic color changes until you see where the tonemapping process takes the image.
8 Export the file as a 16-bit TIFF file for your favorite tonemapper.
Bloch, Christian. The HDRI Handbook 2.0: High Dynamic Range Imaging for Photographers and CG Artists (Posición en Kindle4407-4408). Rocky Nook. Edición de Kindle.
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